Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer.
 Tomoa Narasaki in Munich, 2017 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | June 22, 1996 Utsunomiya, Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation(s) | Professional sport climber and boulderer | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 170 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Spouse | Akiyo Noguchi (m. 2021) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Bouldering | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | World Cup winner and World Champion | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on June 9, 2019 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
He started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.[1] In 2016 and 2019, he won both the Bouldering World Championship and the overall title at the Bouldering World Cup.[2] His younger brother Meichi Narasaki is also a prominent professional climber.[3]
In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics by winning gold in the IFSC Climbing World Championships.[4] He placed fourth in the Olympic combined event.[5]
Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for speed climbing with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition.[6] He is credited with devising the "Tomoa skip", a novel speed climbing method to bypass one of the lower holds in the speed climbing wall.[7]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup[8]
| Discipline | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 52 | - | - | - | 15 | 16 | 20 | 32 | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | 26 | 30 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 6 | 2 | 3 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | 84 | 52 | 44 | 59 | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | 1 | - | - | - |
Climbing World Championships[9]
| Discipline | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | 27 | 1 | - | 1 | 2 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | 5 | 1 | - |
World Cup podiums
Lead[9]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 0 | 2 | 2 | 4 |
Bouldering[9]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2017 | 4 | 4 | ||
| 2018 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
| 2019 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| Total | 6 | 15 | 3 | 24 |
Notable Ascents
On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to flash a V14 boulder after sending Decided in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt.[10] In 2021, Narasaki sent Asagimadara (V15) on his third attempt.[11]
Personal life
On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese sport climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[12]
See also
References
- ^ "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics". 8a.nu. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title". The Japan Times. 9 June 2019. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
- ^ "NARASAKI CONTINUES TO DOMINATE". IFSC Climbing. Retrieved 2 September 2019.
- ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (21 August 2019). "Tomoa Narasaki climbs to gold at world championships, punches ticket for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Olympic Results". olympics.com. Retrieved 11 April 2022.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Gets Personal Best in Speed Climbing". Gripped. March 8, 2021.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki raring to scale Olympic walls in sport climbing debut". Kyodo News. August 2, 201. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "Narasaki's profile and rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Flashes Decided V14 in Japan". Gripped. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki brings Olympic fitness to the rock: 8c boulder in the third attempt". LACRUX. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
- ^ "Japanese sport climbing stars Noguchi, Narasaki announce marriage". Kyodo News. December 26, 2021. Retrieved December 28, 2021.
External links
- Tomoa Narasaki's profile on Adidas-rockstars.com
- Tomoa Narasaki's profile on Fiveten.com