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*Cristina Castagna mountaneering Center, [[Gothulti]], [[Pakistan]],<ref name="centroalpinisticocastagna">[http://www.ilgiornaledivicenza.it/stories/Cronaca/102446__un_dvd_per_la_spedizione_in_pakistan_nel_ricordo_di_cristina_castagna/ Climbing Center Cristina Castagna]</ref><ref name="montagnesolidarieta">[http://www.montagneesolidarieta.it/progetti/Gothulti.html Climbing Center Cristina castagna]</ref><ref name="camminate">[http://www.ilgiornaledivicenza.it/stories/449_news/281133_camminatesui_montinel_nomedi_castagna/ Camminate sui monti nel nome di Castagna]</ref> in progress.
*Cristina Castagna mountaneering Center, [[Gothulti]], [[Pakistan]],<ref name="centroalpinisticocastagna">[http://www.ilgiornaledivicenza.it/stories/Cronaca/102446__un_dvd_per_la_spedizione_in_pakistan_nel_ricordo_di_cristina_castagna/ Climbing Center Cristina Castagna]</ref><ref name="montagnesolidarieta">[http://www.montagneesolidarieta.it/progetti/Gothulti.html Climbing Center Cristina castagna]</ref><ref name="camminate">[http://www.ilgiornaledivicenza.it/stories/449_news/281133_camminatesui_montinel_nomedi_castagna/ Camminate sui monti nel nome di Castagna]</ref> in progress.
*Via Fragile Esistenza (route in memory of Cristina) <ref name="viafragile">[http://www.muroduro.it/relazioni/index.php?option=com_sobi2&sobi2Task=sobi2Details&catid=12&sobi2Id=76&Itemid=1 Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Muroduro]</ref><ref name="viafragile2">[http://www.rampegoni.it/file/vie/piccoledolomiti/Via%20Fragile%20Esistenza.pdf Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Rampegoni]</ref>, [[Campanile di Scagina]],[[Piccole_Dolomiti|Piccole Dolomiti]], [[Veneto]], [[Italy]]. By [[Mario Brighente]], [[Simone Gianesini]],[[Bottegal]], [[Gino Dal Cero,2009]]
*Via Fragile Esistenza (route in memory of Cristina) <ref name="viafragile">[http://www.muroduro.it/relazioni/index.php?option=com_sobi2&sobi2Task=sobi2Details&catid=12&sobi2Id=76&Itemid=1 Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Muroduro]</ref><ref name="viafragile2">[http://www.rampegoni.it/file/vie/piccoledolomiti/Via%20Fragile%20Esistenza.pdf Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Rampegoni]</ref>, [[Campanile di Scagina]],[[Piccole_Dolomiti|Piccole Dolomiti]], [[Veneto]], [[Italy]]. By [[Mario Brighente]], [[Simone Gianesini]],[[Bottegal]], [[Gino Dal Cero,2009]]

==Quotes==
<blockquote>
<p>
''"Sono un Acchiappasogni mani troppo fragili e Cuore troppo lento. Sulla Cima di un 8000 c'è il Silenzio. Un Silenzio che lascia spazio solo al battito del Cuore, al respiro affannoso, a te stesso. Il Mondo è troppo rumoroso sono una ricercatrice del Silenzio."''<br />
"I’m a dreamcatcher, hands too frail, Heart too slow. On the top of an eight thousander there’s just silence. A silence that leaves space to the heartbeat, to the hard breathing, and yourself. The world is too noisy and I am a seeker of Silence"<ref>[http://www.elgrio.net/ Cristina Castagna official page]</ref> <!--accessed July 18, 2009-->
</p>
</blockquote>

<blockquote>
<p>
''"Se vale la pena morire scalando una vetta? Si muore anche per strada. Per me non c'è modo migliore di lasciare questo mondo se non facendo qualcosa che mi piace... Alla fine l'unico limite che devi superare è il tuo, non i limiti degli altri"''<br />
"If it's ok to die to reach a summit? People die on the roads. To me, there's no better way to leave this world than doing something I love...in the end you only have to push your own limits, not the limits of others people"<ref name="nonsiconquistalavettamasestessi"/>
</p>
</blockquote>

<blockquote>
<p>
''"Imparo che nella vita di tutti i giorni molte persone affrontano 8000 molto più difficili e impegnativi dei miei"''<br />
"In my everyday life, I see many people dealing with eight thousanders more difficult and demanding than mine"<ref name="earlylife" />
</p>
</blockquote>

<blockquote>
<p>
"(on [[Nives Meroi]], [[Edurne Pasaban]], [[Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner]])"<br />
''"Tre Donne così diverse che possono piacere o meno, ma che di certo in questo mondo così Bianco come l'alpinismo d'alta quota dipingono a modo loro nuovi quadri che rimarranno nella storia. Leggo di loro e ringrazio di essere Donna"''<br />
"Three women, so different, you may like them or not, but one thing is for sure: in a world so White like high-altitude climbing, they draw into history new paintings in their peculiar ways. I read of them and I'm proud to be Woman"<ref>[http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=36788 Of women and eight thousanders, by Cristina Castagna]</ref>
</p>
</blockquote>

<blockquote>
<p>
''"...Ma Cristina in alta quota era la più brava di tutti noi. Piccola, minuta, ma con un fiato da leone. Noi della generazione passata la invidiavamo un po'. Ci aveva lasciato indietro, su per le montagne. Ma quello che più voglio ricordare di lei è il suo sorriso, la sua spensieratezza. Cristina ha saputo fare quello che voleva: scalare montagne. Con determinazione e volontà, ma sempre con il sorriso" ''<br />
"...Cristina on high-altitude was the best among us. Tiny, short, but with a lion endurance. We, the old men from a past generation were a little envy of her. She lost us behind, up there on the mountains. But I want to remember her smile, her lightheartedness. She succeed to do what she loved: climbing mountains. With determination, strong will, but always with a smile"'' ([[Franco Perlotto]], [[mountain guide]], journalist, major of [[Recoaro Terme]])''<ref>[http://caregaweb.it/?menu=11&sezione=11&pagina=408 Franco Perlotto, major of Recoaro Terme remembers Cristina Castagna]</ref><ref>[http://www.cai.it/uploads/media/LO_SCARPONE_SETTEMBRE_13.pdf Franco Perlotto, Lo scarpone, n.9 September 2009, [[CAI]]]</ref>
</p>

</blockquote>


==Books==
==Books==

Revision as of 20:35, 2 October 2011

Cristina Castagna
Born(1977-12-23)23 December 1977
San Quirico, Valdagno, Italy
Died18 July 2009(2009-07-18) (aged 31)
Broad Peak, Pakistan-China
NationalityItalian
Other namesEl Grio
Occupation(s)nurse,mountaineer
Known formountaineering

Cristina "El Grio" Castagna (23 December 1977 – 18 July 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and the first Italian woman on Makalu.

Castagna was born in San Quirico di Valdagno.[1] She died in 2009 on Broad Peak, after a successful summit attempt.[2]

The Broad Peak incident

Cristina Castagna and Giampaolo Casarotto planned to climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I in their 2009 expedition.
Before leaving home, on a prophetical note (later found by relatives), Castagna asked to be left on the mountains in case of severe accident.

The Broad Peak attempt came first. The same day Fabrizio Zangrilli,[3] Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag[4][5] from Dynafit Gore-Tex-Team were climbing the mountain and spent a few stops with the Italian duo. On 18 July at 3 PM local time, Castagna and Casarotto managed to reach the summit safely, despite severe weather conditions that had slowed the two climbers for nearly ten hours before they reached the summit.[2]

During the descent, at 7,800 metres (25,600 ft), Castagna slipped down, gaining momentum and stopping several metres below in a crevasse.[6] Giampaolo Casarotto eventually managed to reach and try to rescue her with no avail.[2][7][8][9][10]

The same day more than 30 people were attempting to reach the summit[11] and no summit were initially confirmed.[12]
She rests at 7,800 metres (25,600 ft), making recovering difficult also for helicopters. The family, following her last will, decided to not attempt a recovery, thus avoiding to risk other mountainers and porters lives.[13]
Castagna's death had great resonancy on Italian media; she was remembered during a senate of Parliament of Italy meeting[14][15] by Lega Nord senators Paolo Franco[16] e Gianvittore Vaccari. A month after Castagna death, following an Italian expedition in Hindu Kush, Tarcisio Bellò solo-climbed an unnamed peak and named it after Castagna[17][18]

Early life

Cristina was born near San Quirico di Valdagno, near Vicenza. Youngest of four children,[19] during her childhood, she began discovering mountains with her father and her uncle.[1][20] After a technical degree she became an nurse[20] in the ER hospital in Vicenza, a job she kept for all her life.

After a brief interest into Volleyball, in her twenties she began climbing and ski mountaineering[1] with CAI. A few years later, she would be heading to the North Col.[1]

"El Grio", the dreamcatcher cricket

During childood Cristina was a lively girl, always in motion, so her father gave her the nickname "Grio"[21] (Cricket). She liked the nickname so much she kept it in her adult life ("El Grio") often in conjunction with "acchiappasogni" (dreamcatcher). She was also an avid reader and writer.[2][22][23] Following the Makalu feat,[24] she began to appear on Italian national news[25] and newspapapers. Nevertheless she kept working as a nurse, climbing in her spare time, and initially at her own expense. Although she had several sponsors, (notably she was in Salewa AlpineXtrem team[26]) she never became fully a professional climber by status.[27] She also cooperated as alpini nurse and was enrolled to the National Alpini Association[28] and to CAI.[29]
After her death, Jorge Egocheaga, Iñaki Ochoa's climbing mate, revealed her role in his rescue on the Dhaulagiri glacier.[30][31][32][33]

Climbing achievements

She was the first Italian woman on Makalu, Nepal, and at 27, the youngest Italian woman on a eight-thousander (the Shishapangma, Tibet) at the time of her death.

In 2003, during an expedition headed by Tarcisio Bellò along with Mario Vielmo, where she met Giampaolo Casarotto, who would later be her climbing partner for many expedition. The Everest attempt ended at 7,800 metres (25,600 ft)

In 2004 she would climb again with Vielmo, this time on the Shishapangma, along with Michele Fait.[1] In 2005 she was on the Gasherbrum II, where she clibmed with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner[1] In 2006 she made another an unlucky attempt to the Lhotse[34], again with Giampaolo Casarotto and Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli, Marco Confortola and Giampaolo Corona; cold weather drove her back causing a frostbite problem at 8,120 metres (26,640 ft). In 2008 it comes the successful Makalu attempt: with Casarotto. At 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) she was struck by the cold but met Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda who helped her. On the 11 May she was the first Italian woman on Makalu[18] but suffered seriously frostbitten feet that would leave her in hospital for weeks.

In her last trip, she planned to climb both Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I with Giampaolo Casarotto, but she died after the successful Broad Peak attempt.[2] The Italian press agency Ansa mentioned her death in the prominent events of 2009 for Italy[35]

Notable climbs

Humanitarian work

In 1999 Cristina served as a nurse in Valona during Italian government humanitarian mission "Missione Arcobaleno" in Albania.[18][36] An Eye hospital service, specialized in early Cataract treatment, has since been created in Alepe, Ivory Coast to remember Castagna[1][18][37]

Places and routes

Books

On 1, July 2010 CAI Valdagno and Recoaro Terme sections published a biography by Massimo Fontana, on Castagna's life and achievements.[1]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h Massimo Fontana, Cristina Castagna, L'acchiappasogni,CAI Valdagno e CAI Recoaro Terme
  2. ^ a b c d e f Giampaolo Casarotto accident report back in Italy
  3. ^ Fabrizio Zangrili K2, Broad Peak & Latok II Rescue : Summer 2009 Wrap Up
  4. ^ Zwei alpine Grenzgänger: Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag on Broad Peak (in German)
  5. ^ Wettlauf mit dem Tod: Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag (in German)
  6. ^ Broad Peak report
  7. ^ Muore Cristina Castagna
  8. ^ Cristina confirmed lost on Broad Peek
  9. ^ Giampaolo Casarotto on Cristina's death
  10. ^ Broad, la Castagna precipita dopo la cima
  11. ^ Rosa Fernandez De Rubio, spanish climber on the Broad Peek
  12. ^ Cristina Castagna died on Broad Peak
  13. ^ Rispetto del suo volere Rimarrà sempre lassù
  14. ^ MONTAGNA:LEGA RICORDA IN SENATO SCALATA K2 E CRISTINA CASTAGNA
  15. ^ Italian Senate meeting n.249 abstract: K2 and Castagna
  16. ^ Commemorazione Cristina Castagna from Paolo Franco Site
  17. ^ a b Pakistan, una cima per la Castagna
  18. ^ a b c d Castagna Biography on Progetto Alepe
  19. ^ El Grio riposa sul Karakorum Valdagno piange Cristina
  20. ^ a b Vicenza. Precipita in un crepaccio sul K3, è morta "el grio" Cristina Castagna
  21. ^ Non si conquista la vetta, ma se stessi
  22. ^ Cristina's death on ilsole24ore national newspaper
  23. ^ Premio Calastoria (in memoriam)
  24. ^ a b First italian woman on Makalu
  25. ^ Italian state interview from Corriere della Sera website
  26. ^ Salewa note about Cristina Castagna death
  27. ^ Cristina Castagna, la piccola vicentina che guarda il mondo dall'alto
  28. ^ Era iscritta alla Sezione di Valdagno, Cristina Castagna morta sul Karakorum.
  29. ^ Cai Valdagno
  30. ^ Va por ti, Iñaki, por Miss Go y por Cristina: Jorge Egocheaga remembers Cristina (in Spanish)
  31. ^ K2, vetta a sorpresa per Egocheaga: Jorge Egocheaga on Cristina during his attempt to K2 summit
  32. ^ Egocheaga, feliz en la montaña y con sus gentes (in Spanish)
  33. ^ Jorge Egocheaga ALPINISTA Y MEDICO : "La muerte de un ser querido es más dura que la propia muerte"
  34. ^ Lhotse attempt with Confortola, Mondinelli, Casarotto
  35. ^ Ansa italian Photostory for 2009
  36. ^ Italian Alpine Club page on Cristina
  37. ^ a b Cristina Castagna Eye hospital service
  38. ^ Climbing Center Cristina Castagna
  39. ^ Climbing Center Cristina castagna
  40. ^ Camminate sui monti nel nome di Castagna
  41. ^ Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Muroduro
  42. ^ Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Rampegoni

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